Knife Sharpening — Getting a knife scary sharp!
This clip is from our “Advanced Blade Sharpening” DVD, which is a sequel to our “Introduction to Knife Sharpening.” These two dvds offer a comprehensive guide to sharpening in which Murray Carter, Master Bladesmith and owner of Carter Cutlery, explains what you need to become an expert at sharpening knives… sharp enough so you can shave with even a camping knife! Some of the topics covered in the Advanced DVD are: 6-Step Sharpening Procedure Kata-Ha Sushi Knife Sharpening Tanto Blade Re-grinding Achieving Defined Points Using Stones So They Wear Evenly Shortcomings Of Guides & Jigs Function Of Polishing Sludge What To Do With Serrations Effect Of Angled Micro-Serrations On Slice Pitting On Carbon Steeled Blades To order these dvds, visit the Knife Sharpening page at our website: www.cartercutlery.com For those really serious about getting to work quickly and correctly, check out our Japanese Water Stones: www.cartercutlery.com Be sure also to visit our main website here for a real treat to discover the worth and beauty of hand-forged Japanese knives: www.cartercutlery.com Be sure to sign up for our free Blade Sharpening and Knife Maintenance Tips: www.cartercutlery.com Drop by for a visit! Hope to see you soon. And remember… Stay sharp!
yeah i actually have the spyderco sharpmaker but i really want to learn how to sharpen by hand and strop
@mrbeans120317 just make sure you’ve refined the scratch pattern enough to make it stroppable, otherwise, stropping will be pretty much useless. Optimally, Finish with at least a 5,000 grit abrasive before stropping. I usually use an 8,000 grit before stropping; though spyderco’s ultra fine ceramic rods for the sharpmaker are good as well; a lot cheaper than a naniwa ss, norton, and shapton stones (though shapton makes the best whetstones, in my opinion).
nice Thanks!!!
@mrbeans120317 Certainly, in fact, I did just that a couple days ago, when my brand new spyderco temperance 2 came in. I just stropped the factory edge, first with Formax micro fine green honing compound, then with plain leather, and I literally shaved my face with it. Did the same thing with my Dad’s A.G. Russel.
so what your saying is i could use the the green compound first and then i can strop it with just the leather?
@mrbeans120317; it basically comes down to what you are trying to do. Compound has grit in it for abrasive purposes; which will tighten the scratch pattern on the edge, though the scratch pattern will be so small (especially if you are using common green honing compound (.5 micron)) that it will appear as a mirror finish. A straight leather strop has no grit or abrasive, and will take off no metal whatsoever, and is just used to polish the blade, for a lower friction coefficient.
when stropping with leather is it better to put the compound or without?
ANYONE?
Murray, who I work for, is the knifesmith. Yes, he lived in Japan nearly 20 years and studied the craft, becoming a master bladesmith himself. You can read his story on our website.
Wes, it looks like you’ve learned Japanese style sharpening techniques….have you spent time working with Japanese knifesmiths?
how long did it take you to learn sharpening i look at your neck knives and i dont think i could ever afford one wish they were cheaper and the classes 2
I’m thinking like oil on your fingers.. Nevermind everything I’ve said
more accurately,oil will do exactly the opposite of rust your knifes,if they have oil on them,they basically can’t rust,rust being iron oxide,oil creates an air barrier,so no matter how much iron you have,you can’t get the oxide part
@BLOFFERR yeah I clean my guns with oil too, somebody told me that and they were a smart body, guess they were wrong
For the record your right. Oil won’t rust your blade.
No it’s not !@
your going to shave your face with that kinda blade?
Of course. I also shave with a straight but just never spent the money on the norton or coticule. I’ve got a chisel sharpening set of 4×2 Japanese waterstones going 4000, 6000 and 8000. I just use the 4000 and 8000 and left the 6000 for my chisels. They’re small but do the job well. I use a linen strop with white rouge that does a pretty good job before hitting the leather one. I’d love to get a 12k Naniwa or maybe a Swaty…I keep watching and waiting for the right price. Later.
@Iregretmostofmyposts I think if we are talking general knives then yeah you wouldn’t need such stones or strop. If we are talking shaving straight razors then the LEAST finest grit you should have is an 8k. I usually use a norton whetstone 4k/8k for honing and finish up with a 12k naniwa whetstone for straight razors.
that oil will rust your knives
I don’t have any real expensive knives but my knives are real sharp … I use automotive style wet and dry sand paper and oil to wet the paper. Water if you’re in the bush. You can get this stuff pretty cheap and in any grit … some so fine it makes a good polishing medium…
@mahlstadt
The 1000/6000 is more than sufficient but nice to have. I believe he is saying that with the proper technique you really don’t need an $80 stone and $40 strop.
blunderbus21, I once worked in the kitchen of a restaurant. For mass processing of food, they use cheap industrial kitchen knives costing $15 and less. They sharpened using either hardware-store stone or electric sharpener. Those things sharpen fast, but they take a lot of metal. A full size chef knife lasts about a couple of years. Since the knives are so cheap, they don’t care.
The kind of knives you care to sharpen on a fancy stone costs upwards of $100 a piece.
nice advice, but the average consumer is still confused about which stone to buy.
it sounds like you don’t recommend a 1000/6000 stone.
“This is the way you sharpen a knife you care about”
bingo
I like the looks of this method and will try it. It is said that a duller knife is one that will cut you and this is what happened to me while slicing onions. I also have a butcher knife that wont cut butter, really. I have never sharpened it and it is an old hand me down knife. Now to find a stone.